Lake district primer part ii

Just FYI, Part I and now this Part II are actually the same day, a 15 mile journey from Ennerdale to Rosthwaite. After the Black Sail hostel, we tackled big grassy and boggy hill humps on the way to the edge of the great big climb up a huge ridge- one little step after the other. The transition was reminiscent of those roller coasters that start on a flat and suddenly jerk upward to a slow chug, chug uphill climb- but this one lasted much longer. Once again, no switchbacks, just straight up and over, little ants scaling a giant wall. The view became steadily more and more spectacular looking back down this massive bowl toward Black Sail and enjoying the tumbling falls continually on our left. At the top we flopped down and hugged the rock pile cairn marking the top. After a brief break, the trail continued flattish but very high up and we could see many peaks around and also a narrow slot view down toward Ennerdale Water and even the coast of the Irish Sea way off in the distance. Wow, we’ve come so far already!! Passed a slate mine with tourist shop with bathrooms (hooray) and continued on the slow, torturous tumbling rocky downhill, with the Rosthwaite valley in sight, but every step toward it seemed to take us backward. Thankfully Rachel (who had already done this part) didn’t let on just how much their was still to go!. Wend our way down finally into this gorgeous little residential area, dropped Rachel off at her place and walked yet another mile along a river, through a woods (yes, just like the song) and wend our way between small sheep pastures, backyards of whitewashed stone homes, watching people gardening and carrying on with their lives. I love how these public paths pick their way through private property, giving travelers a peek into isolated domestic spaces. I can’t even imagine backpackers ambling up my driveway, scooting into the backyard and turning right onto 8th street and then left down the alley. Actually, I think it would be awesome. I’d leave out little snacks for folks or hand them some coffee. Can you even imagine if this were the new reality in the U.S.? Finally our gravel path came to and end, a T with a road. Straight ahead was another whitewashed building without marking. We stood befuddled- which way now? Right away, a familiar welcoming face came running toward us, Ruth, one of our new friends from a group of two Aussie couples, said, “You’re here! This is it! We’ve been eating dinner and watching for you out the window.” Oh, hooray! Wow, so grateful we were to be rescued from our exhausted lostness from one of our new friends!